Day 1. Transfer from Almaty to Base camp "Karkara" (2200 m.), 280 km. - 5 hours. Accommodation in spacious 2-person camping tents. Welcome dinner. Guide consultation, equipment checking.
Day 2. Training ("acclimatization") ascent to the Sartasu Pass 3630 m., from where, in good weather, you can see the snow-covered ridges of the Central Tien Shan with the black pyramid of Khan Tengri peak, 7010 m. Level check of phisical and climbing skills.
Day 3. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier, 4250m. During the flight, you will see wide green valleys below, stormy mountain rivers, peaks and glaciers of the Sary Zhas and Tengri Tag ranges and the beautiful Mertsbacher Lake at the junction of the Northern and Southern Inylchek glaciers. Upon arrival to “Icy Kingdom” Training in using crampons and ice axe.
After lunch in dining tent you will make an acclimatization climb along the slope of Karly Tau peak to an altitude of 4600m. (2 hours). From here a magnificent panorama of the surrounding ice peaks opens up - Kazakhstan, 5761m., Marble Wall, 6400m., Przhevalsky, 6370m., Shatyor, 6500m and, of course, Khan Tengri, 7010m.! Descent to the glacier (1 hour). Overnight at the camp in 2-3 person tents with inflatable mattresses.
Day 4.The ascent to the top of Karly Tau begins at night at 04:00 AM. From the place of yesterday's ascent you already know, you will climb the ice slope with a steepness of 30-35 degrees, using climbing "crampons", along the fixed ropes prepared by our guides.
You will meet sunrise at the edge of the ice plateau at an altitude of 4750m at 07:00 AM. After a short rest and making a photo against the backdrop of a magnificent panorama of ice giants exceeding 6000m, we cross the snow-covered plateau of Karly Tau (2 km) and exit to the pass 5000m by 9 AM.
From the pass a unique view opens up to the North, where on the horizon beyond the ice ridges and glaciers you can see the valley of the Ili River and the Altyn Emel desert. On the snow ridge we climb to the top by 10:30 AM. The 360-degree panorama is the “coolest thing” you can ever seen. Descent to camp on the way to 4 PM. The long-awaited relaxation with a hot dinner and the exchange of impressions is a great reward for a hard day. Overnight at camp.
Day 5. Weather contingency day. Glacier walking.
Day 6. Breakfast. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara. Alpine meadows and forest seem even greener after five days in the ice! Lunch. Transfer to Almaty.
Duration:
6 days for the period of July – August
Dates: 23-28.07.2025 and 14-19.08. 2025
Price: on fixed dates - 2480$ per person
Group size is 6 – 10 persons
Price: on fixed dates - 2480$ per person
Group size is 6 – 10 persons
The price includes:
* Mountain guide
* Group transfers to the Karkara BC and back by private vehicles
* Pack-lunch on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back
* Border permit
* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents
* Shower in Karkara BC
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Full board and accommodation in Glacier camp in 2-3 person tent
* Mess tent
* Toilet tent
* Fixed ropes for ascent to the Karly Tau plateau and descent
* Climbing ropes and other group climbing equipment
* Crampons, safety belt, jumar, 2 carabines, ice axe.
* First aid set
* Satellite phone
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
The price does not include:
* Rescue (travel insurance required)
* Personal climbing wear and boots
* Hotel in Almaty
* Meal in Almaty
* Extra helicopter flight and single transfer
* Spending on personal items (alcohol/bottled drinks, laundry, gifts etc.)
* Tips
Personal equipment for Karly Tau Peak 5450
- Mountain boots (with “over-boots”) for 6000 meters climbing
- Windproof clothing and thick fleece
- Downy jacket
- Sleeping bag (4 seasons)
- Bag pack (40-50 l.)
- Gloves (flees, silk, windproof)
- Fleece hat windproof
- Travel bag 100 l
- Trekking sticks
- Head lamp with spare batteries
- Knife
- Thermo-body-clothes
- Lighter 2
- Sunglasses
- Sunblock F.30 or more
Climbing route.
Karly Tau Peak is the peak in the Central Tien Shan, which is suitable for climbing by everyone who wants to conquer first five-thousander.
The ascent route is not difficult - a flat glacier at Camp 4250 m, a gentle talus slope leading to 150 m snow-icy slope equipped by fixed ropes till the edge 4800 m, crossing few crevasses, a gentle snow plateau to the pass, from which the summit is reached along a snow ridge with a steepness of 35 degrees.
The group will be lead by an experienced professional guide, assistants will be provided for each of 4 climbers.
Climbing season.
The best period for climbing is 15 July till 25 August.
The duration – 6 days
Food.
Food will be of the highest standard possible, given the remoteness of the situation. You will take hot meals in Base Camps on the full board basis. On the mountain high-altitude food is not provided.
We are able to accommodate most dietary requirements but do please inform us in advance.
Visa support and invitation letter.
Please, check if you need to get visa to Kazakhstan.
Most of EU citizens have a visa-free regime in Kazakhstan for a period of 30 days.
To arrange permit to the frontier zone we will need scanned copy of your passport in advance.
Note! There shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry
Environmental protection.
For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.
Booking Procedure.
If you would like to join this expedition, please complete our booking form and send it by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
Please contact us if you'd like further information and assistance in planning your trip.
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