Day 1. Travel from Almaty to Base camp "Karkara" (2200 m.), 280 km. - 5 hours. Accommodation in spacious 2-person camping tents. Welcome dinner. Guide consultation.
Day 2. Training ("acclimatization") ascent to the summit Krugozor, 3550 m., from where, in good weather, you can see the snow-covered ridges of the Central Tien Shan with the black pyramid of Khan Tengri peak, 7010 m.
Day 3. 35-minutes helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier, 4000m. During the flight, you will see wide green valleys below, stormy mountain rivers, peaks and glaciers of the Sary Zhas and Tengri Tag ranges and the beautiful Mertsbacher lake at the junction of the Northern and Southern Inylchek glaciers. Upon arrival, accommodation at the base camp in spacious 2-person tents on wooden platforms. Acclimatization walk along the glacier to the foot of the 3-kilometer North Face of Khan Tengri Peak.
Day 4. Full day training of climbing skills with guide. Dinner and evening together with climbers from around the world.
Day 5. Trek 5 km (3 hours) to the upper reaches of the grand glacier Northern Inylchek to Advanced Camp at an altitude of 4250 m., where you will have a hot lunch with a view of the picturesque glacier ("Himalayan icefall"), flowing down from the Karly Tau plateau. Overnight at Advance Camp.
Day 6. Today you will make a training ("acclimatization") climb along the slope of Karly Tau peak to an altitude of 4600m. (3-4 hours). From here a magnificent panorama of the surrounding ice peaks opens up - Kazakhstan, 5761m., Marble Wall, 6400m., Przhevalsky, 6370m., Shatyor, 6500m. and, of course, Khan Tengri, 7010m.! Descent to the glacier (2 hours). Overnight at Advance Camp.
Day 7. The ascent to the top of Karly Tau begins late at night at 04:00 am. From the place of yesterday's ascent you already know, you will climb the ice slope with a steepness of 30-35 degrees, using climbing "crampons", along the foxed ropes prepared in advance on the route by our guides. You will meet sunrise at the edge of the ice plateau at an altitude of 4750m. at 07:00 am. After a short rest and making a photo against the backdrop of a magnificent panorama of ice giants exceeding 6000m, we cross the snow-covered plateau of Karly Tau (2 km) and exit to the pass 5000m. By 9 a.m. from the pass a unique view opens up to the north, where on the horizon beyond the ice ridges and glaciers you can see the valley of the Ili River and the Altyn Emel desert. On the snow ridge we climb to the top by 10 a.m. The 360-degree panorama is the “coolest thing” you can ever seen. Descent to Advance Camp on the way to 4 p.m. The long-awaited relaxation with a hot dinner and the exchange of impressions is a great reward for a hard day.
Day 8. Late breakfast. Leisurely gathering and descent to the base camp on a familiar glacier for lunch. Hot sauna and gala dinner.
Day 9. Weather contingency day.
Day 10. Weather contingency day.
Day 11. Breakfast. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara. Alpine meadows and forest seem even greener after seven days in the ice! Lunch.
Day 12.Travel to Almaty.
Duration:
12 days for the period of 19.07.23- 31.07.2023
Period: July - August
Dates:
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The guided expedition fee on fixed dates - 2700$ per person
*Group size is 4 persons minimum
The expedition fee includes:
* Local guide
* Transfers to the Central Tien Shan Mountains and back (Almaty – Karkara BC – Almaty) by private vehicles
* Lunchboxes on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back
* Border permit
* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents
* Sauna\shower in Karkara BC
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Experienced mountain guide for every 4-5 climbers
* Full board North Inylchek BC accommodation– in comfortable “walk-in” tents on wooden platforms with mats, and meal in large mess-tent with tables and chairs
* Full board and accommodation in ABC in 2-3 person tent
* Hot shower in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Fixed ropes for ascent to the plateau Karly Tau and descent
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
The expedition fee does not include:
* High-altitude food for the summit day
* Rescue (travel insurance required)
* Hotel nights in in Almaty
* Mmeal in Almaty
* Extra helicopter flight
* Spending on personal items (alcohol/bottled drinks, laundry, gifts etc.)
* Optional trips and sightseeing tours
* Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and Glacier BC
* Tips
The "Economy" package fee - 1600 $ per person at request.
The fee includes:
helicopter charter flight Karkara BC – the North Inylchek glacier and way back; entrance fee for the border region; ecological duties; registration in “rescue team”; place for tent in North Inylchek BC; toilets in BC ;safe box in BC; evacuation of debris from BC ; medical consultations in the BC; consultations by an experienced guide ; radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office; walky-talky; electric generator (220V) in BC for charging batteries; local staff insurance; weather forecast from Internet; changing the date of return helicopter flight from BC
*Baggage limit - 30kg; extra weight - 7$/per kg.
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
| 1.KOVEA stove |
30 USD per piece |
| 2.KOVEA gas cylinders |
10 USD per balloon |
| 3."Red Fox" or similar high altitude double tent |
215 USD per tent |
| 4.Ropes 50 meters |
80 USD per rope |
Climbing route.
Karly Tau Peak is the peak in the Central Tien Shan, which is suitable for climbing by everyone who wants to conquer their first five-thousanders.
The ascent route is extremely simple - a flat glacier to Camp 1 (4250 m), a gentle talus slope leading to Camp 2 (4800 m), a gentle snow plateau to the pass, from which the summit is reached along a snow ridge with a steepness of 35 degrees.
The group will be lead by an experienced professional guide, assistants will be provided for each of 4 climbers.
Climbing season.
The best period for climbing is 15 July till 25 August.
The duration – 10 - 12 days
Food.
Food will be of the highest standard possible, given the remoteness of the situation. You will take hot meals in Base Camps on the full board basis. On the mountain high-altitude food is not provided.
We are able to accommodate most dietary requirements but do please inform us in advance.
Visa support and invitation letter.
Please, check if you need to get visa to Kazakhstan.
Most of EU citizens have a visa-free regime in Kazakhstan for a period of 30 days.
To arrange permit to the frontier zone we will need scanned copy of your passport in advance.
Note! There shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry
Personal equipment:
- Mountain boots (with overboots) for 6000 meters climbing
- Crampons (classic) - it is poissible to rent at 40 USD
- Windproof clothing and thick fleece
- Downy jacket
- Sleeping bag (4 seasons)
- Climbing mattress
- Rucksack (80-90 l.)
- Gloves (flees, silk, windproof)
- Fleece hat windproof
- Harness
- 2-meters rope
- 4 carabines
- Jumar
- Descender
- Head lamp with spare batteries
- Knife
- Thermo-body-clothes
- Ice axe (classic) - it is poissible to rent at 40 USD
- Lighter 2
- Sunglasses
- Sunblock F.30 or more
Environmental protection.
For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.
Booking Procedure.
If you would like to join this expedition, please complete our booking form and send it by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
Please contact us if you'd like further information and assistance in planning your trip.
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