Pobeda Peak expedition, 7439m, Kyrgyzstan
Pobeda Peak - the highest summit in Tien Shan - is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China and discovered by local topographers only in 1943. On the Northern, Kyrgyz, side it is covered with rough ice, streaming down to the foot of the Zvyozdochka Glacier. The most popular route lies across the northern ridge of the West Summit - Vasha Pshavela, 6918 m. There is a simple route to Camp 1 (4500 m) from the South Inylchek Base Camp. The last hundred meters of the route pass around crevices. Ascent to Camp 2 (5200 m) is made across the Diky Pass by a steep icefall, where Kan-Tengri's guides usually fix ropes. Here climbers should move at maximum speed since avalanches, falling from the North Wall of Pobeda Peak, sometimes reach the icefall and a storm may even catch the camp. The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (5800 m) lies along an easy snow ridge. Camp 3 is usually arranged in a snow cave. Then follow rocks of categories 2 and 3, to be done with the fixed ropes, and the site for setting Camp 4 at altitude 6300 - 6400 m. After that a steep snow-covered slope, alternated with strips of ice, where Camp 5 (6918 m) is usually set on the South (Chinese) side of the summit ridge, followed with a gently sloping ridge about 2 kilometers long. A steep snow-covered ridge leads to the summit - a broad geometric rock ridge, sometimes covered with snow. The gorgeous panoramic view of the entire Tien Shan mountain-mass and bordering wilderness will fully make up for all your efforts.