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“Expedition style” (In practice since 1989 year)
C1 – C2 – BC
C1 - C2 - Chapayev Peak – BC
C1 - C2 - C3 – Summit – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC
Day 1. Arrive Almaty, Kazakhstan. Meeting at the airport. Visit to a supermarket to purchase high altitude food. 4-hours’ transfer to Karkara Base Camp (2200 m) - 280 km.
Stay in comfortable "walk-in tents" (2200m a.s.l.). Welcome meal and gear check.
Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m.
Day 3. Helicopter charter flight to BC Northern Inylchek, 4000m - 35 minutes.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.
First acclimatization climb (C1 – C2 – BC).
Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.
Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.
Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.
Second acclimatization climb (C1 - C2 - Chapayev Peak – BC).
Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.
Day 11. Rest in BC.
Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.
Ascent to the Summit (C1 - C2 - C3 – Summit – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC).
Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.
Day 16. Summit day. Start at 3 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 8—9 hours and decent along the same route to C3 – 4-5 hours.
Day 17. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.
Day 18. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.
Day 19. Weather contingency day.
Day 20. Weather contingency day.
Day 21. Weather contingency day.
Day 22. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara.
Day 23. Travel to Almaty, stay at a hotel.
Day 24. Depart hotel for the airport. Fly home.
*more details about the programme is in the recommendations section
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Duration: 24 days
Period: July - August
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The expedition fee for the "Full Paсkage" is 2500$ per person
Single supplement charge in a hotel + 35$
The expedition fee includes:
* Airport transfers in Almaty by private vehicles
* 1 night bed and breakfast accommodation at Hotel (3*) in Almaty on a twin sharing basis (at arrival or before departure)
* Transfers to the Central Tien Shan Mountains and back (Almaty – Karkara BC – Almaty) by private vehicles
* Lunchboxes on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back
* Border permit
* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents
* Sauna\shower in Karkara BC
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC with free change of the departure date (no limitation for luggage overweight)
* Full board North Inylchek BC accommodation– in comfortable “walk-in” tents on wooden platforms with mats, and meal in large mess-tent with tables and chairs
* Hot shower in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Tent security in BC
* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide
* Translator’s service in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Local staffs insurance
* Fixed ropes along the Northern route and Western Ridge of Khan Tengri
* Walky-Talky
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
The expedition fee does not include:
* Food & personal gear above the BC
* Rescue (travel insurance required)
* Extra hotel nights in in Almaty
* Lunch and evening meal in Almaty
* Sightseeing in Almaty
* Local guide
* Extra helicopter flight
* Spending on personal items (alcohol/bottled drinks, laundry, gifts etc.)
* Optional trips and sightseeing tours
* Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and Glacier BC
* Tips
Local guide fee is 2500$ for the group of 1- 3 persons
The expedition fee for the "Economy Paсkage" is 1400$ per person
Extra baggage (over 30 kg) - 7$\kg
It includes the minimum required set of services.
The expedition fee includes:
* Border permit
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Place for a tent in BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Tent security in BC
* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide
* Translator’s service in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Fixed ropes along the Northern route and Western Ridge of Khan Tengri
* Walky-Talky
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
* Hotel reservation
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
| 1.KOVEA stove |
30$ per piece |
| 2.KOVEA gas cylinders |
10$ per balloon |
| 3."Red Fox" or similar high altitude double tent |
215$ per tent |
| 4.Ropes 50 meters |
80$ per rope |
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The climbing route.
Click here for more photos of the route
The safest route to the summit leads from our Base Camp on the Northern Inylchek Glacier. It is a little bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) from the South Inylchek Glacier, but is protected from icefalls and avalanches, which killed the climbers on the classic route in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006 and 2010 years.
The ascent on northern route lies against the background of the vigorous Northern Wall of Khan Tengri Peak (3000 m), formed of black granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4700 m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the North summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m. An easy wide snow ridge ends in Camp 3 (5900 m). On the desent route of the snow-covered dome, you will face with a big 8 - meters high ice-wall, which we have equipped with fixed-ropes and ladder for ascents and descents.
The ascent shall be continued by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few rocky shelves to set Camp 4 at altitude 6400 m. However, this option is not often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. The guides of our company only fix ropes on the most difficult parts of the route that will ease your climbing almost till the top of Khan Tengri Peak.
One more advantage of the North Side Route is the opportunity of climbing by the simple snow routes to Karly Tau Peak, 5450 m, Bayankol Peak, 5791 m, Kazakhstan Peak, 5761 m for acclimatization, also from the North Inylchek BC.
Climbing season.
The best period for climbing is 8 July till 25 August 2022.
The duration – 24 days, depending on international airlines.
Food.
Food will be of the highest standard possible, considering the distance of the expedition site. You will take hot meals in Base Camps (Karkara and North Inylchek) on the full board basis. On the mountain high-altitude food is not provided.
We are able to accommodate most dietary requirements (vegetarian, gluten free etc.) but do please inform us in advance.
High-altitude food.
According to the itinerary (Day 1), you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure from Almaty to Karkara BC for buying high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.
There are different foods and beverages in supermarkets of Almaty, the most popular are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.
Buying high-altitude food in Almaty will save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
The gear.
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
| 1.KOVEA stove |
30$ per piece |
| 2.KOVEA gas cylinders |
10$ per balloon |
| 3."Red Fox" or similar high altitude double tent |
215$ per tent |
| 4.Ropes 50 meters |
80$ per rope |
These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
Hotel accommodation.
Expedition fee includes one night accommodation in a hotel 3* in Almaty. It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice.
Additional night at the hotel 4* - 60 USD per night.
Visa support and invitation letter.
In connection with the changing situation associated with COVID, we ask you to check the need to obtain a visa to Kazakhstan.
Normally, most of EU citizens have a visa-free regime in Kazakhstan for a period of 30 days.
To arrange permit to the frontier zone we will need scanned copy of your passport in advance.
Note! There shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry
Local guides.
We have the team of very experienced guides – mountaineers.
Our climbing experience has shown and proved that climbing to Khan Tengri Peak with local guide will have 95% of success.
The cost of local guide for the period of ascending:
Also you may order high-altitude porter (who carries up to 9 kg a day up to Camp 3), very qualified, the cost – 1800$.
The order of local guide and high-altitude porter should be done two months in advance.
Environmental protection.
For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.
Personal equipment list:
- Mountain boots (with overboots) for 6000 meters climbing
- Crampons (classic) - possible to rent at 40 USD
- Windproof clothing and thick fleece
- Downy jacket
- Sleeping bag (4 seasons)
- Climbing mattress
- Rucksack (80-90 l.)
- Gloves (flees, silk, windproof)
- Fleece hat windproof
- Harness
- 2-meters rope
- 4 carabines
- Jumar
- Descender
- Head lamp with spare batteries
- Knife
- Thermal underwear
- Ice axe (classic) - possible to rent at 40 USD
- Lighter - 2
- Sunglasses
- Sunblock F.50
Booking Procedure.
If you would like to join this expedition, please complete our booking form and send it by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
Please contact us if you'd like further information and assistance in planning your trip.
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Helicopter on the Glacier
On the shoulder of Khan Tengri Peak
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