Khan Tengri Peak, 7010m

*more about the programme in the recommendations 

Duration: 24 days
Period: July - August

Cost of  "Full" package:

1 person - 2200 USD from participant  

Single supplement charge in a hotel + 35 USD 

What the price of program includes:

* Airport  transfers in Almaty by private vehicles

* 1 night bed and breakfast accommodation at Hotel (3*) in Almaty on a twin sharing basis (at arrival or before departure)

* Transfer to the Central Tien Shan Mountains (Almaty – Karkara BC – Almaty) by private vehicles

* Lunchboxes on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back

* Border permit

* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents

* Sauna\shower in Karkara BC

* Helicopter return charter flight to the North Inylchek glacier BC with free change of the departure date

* Full board North Inylchek BC accommodation– in comfortable “walk-in” tents on wooden platforms with mats, and meal in large mess-tent with tables and chairs

* Hot shower in North Inylchek glacier BC 

* Wash basin with warm water

* Toilet in BC

* Protection of tent in BC

* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide

* Translator’s service in North Inylchek glacier BC

* Local staffs insurance 

* Fixed ropes along the Northern route and Western Ridge of Khan Tengri

* Walky-Talky 

* Safe box in BC

* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office

* Weather forecast from the Internet

* First aid in BC

* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries 

* Entrance fee for the border region

* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter

* Ecological duties

What the price does not include:

 * Food & personal equipment above the BC on the glacier

* Rescue (travel insurance required)

* Extra hotel nights in in Almaty

* Lunch and evening meal in Almaty

* Local guide 

* Extra helicopter flight 

* Bar bills and laundry

* Optional trips and sightseeing tours

* Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and  Glacier BC 

* Tips

Cost of  “ECONOMY"  package (Karkara BC – Base Camp on the glacier – Karkara BC)

1 person - 1300 USD from participant  

What the price of program includes:

*Return charter helicopter flight to BC 

*Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North  

*Entrance fee for the border region 

*Ecological duties 

*Registration in “rescue team”

*Place for the tent in North Inylchek BC 

*Protection of tent in BC

*Toilets in BC

*Safe box in BC

*Evacuation of debris from BC 

*Medical consultations in the BC

*Consultations by an experienced guide 

*Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office 

*Walky-Talky 

*Electric generator (220V) in BC for charging batteries

*Staffs insurance 

*Weather forecast from Internet

*Changing the date of return helicopter flight from BC

*Baggage limit - 30kg; extra weight - 7 USD/per kg.

You may rent in our company the following equipment:

1. Regarding to the climbing route

The safest route up the summit leads from our Base Camp on the North Inylchek Glacier. It is a little bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) from the South Inylchek Glacier, but is protected from icefalls and avalanches, which killed the climbers on the classic route in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006 and 2010 years.

The ascent on northern route lies against the background of the vigorous Northern Wall of Khan Tengri Peak (3000 m), formed of black granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4700 m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the North summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m. An easy wide snow ridge ends in Camp 3 (5900 m). On the desent route of the snow-covered dome, you will face with a big 8 - meters high ice-wall, which we have equipped with fixed-ropes and ladder for ascents and descents.     

The ascent shall be continued by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few rocky shelves to set Camp 4 at altitude 6400 m. However, this option is not often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. The guides of our company only fix ropes on the most difficult parts of the route that will ease your climbing almost till the top of Khan Tengri Peak.

Please, bear in mind that some companies sell the expeditions to Khan Tengri Peak from the North, and for some reason include our "fix-ropes" on the route in their cost. In this connection, we ask all climbers (not our clients) to take into consideration that the cost of “fix-ropes” is 250 USD for 1 person; the payment will be raised in "Northern Inylchek" Base Camp.

One more advantage of the North Side Route is the opportunity of climbing by the simple snow routes for Karly Tau Peak, 5450 m, Bayankol Peak, 5791 m, Kazakhstan Peak, 5761 m for acclimatization, also from the North Inylchek BC. 

2. Regarding to the climbing season

The best period for climbing is 13 July till 25 August 2020.

The duration – 24 days, depending on international airlines.

3. Regarding to the high-altitude food

According to the itinerary (Day 1), you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure from Almaty to Karkara BC to for buyinghi high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.

There are different foods and beverages in supermarkets of Almaty, the most popular are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.

Buying high-altitude food in Almaty will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.

4. Regarding to the equipment

You may rent in our company the following equipment:

These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.

5. Regarding to the hotel accommodation

Service list includes one night accommodation in a hotel 3* in Almaty. It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice. 

Additional night at the hotel 3*  - 60 USD per person / per night.

6. Regarding visa support and letter of invitation

Please check if you need to get visa to Kazakhstan 

For organizing your trip including permit to border zone we will need scanned copy of your passport.

Note!  There shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry

7. Regarding to the local guides

We are the only tourist company that does have the team of very experienced guides – mountaineers.

Our climbing experience has shown and proved that climbing to Khan Tengri Peak with local guide will have 95% of success.

The cost of local guide for period of ascending:

Also you may order high-altitude porter (who carries up to 9 kg a day up to Camp 3), very qualified, the cost – 1800 USD.

The order of local guide and high-altitude porter should be done two months in advance.

8. Regarding to the environmental protection

For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.

Standard program of ascent on Khan Tengri Peak from the North

“Expedition style”

In practice since 1989 year

“C1 – C2 – Chapayev Peak – C3 – Summit – C3 – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC”

Day 1. Drive from Almaty to Karkara BC, 2200 m a.s.l.

Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m on the summit’s slopes of Bas Karkara’s Peak, 4059m.

Day 3. Helicopter flight to Northern Inylchek Glacier BC, 4000 m.

Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.

First acclimatization climb.

Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.

Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.

Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.

Second acclimatization climb.

Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.

Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.

Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes  - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.

Day 11. Rest in BC.

Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.

Ascent to the Summit.

Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.

Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.

Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.

Day 16. Ascension on the top of Mt.Khan Tengri, 7010m. Start at 3 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 8—9 hours and decent along the same route to C3 – 4-5 hours.

Day 17. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.

Day 18. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.

Day 19. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 20. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 21. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.

Day 22. Helicopter flight to Karkara BC.

Day 23. Drive to Almaty. Hotel.

Day 24. Departure.

Click here for more photos of the route

9. Booking Procedure

If you decided to take part of the expedition, please fill-in our form and send by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.:

Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.