Khan Tengri Peak, 7010m, Kazakhstan
Khan Tengri is a beautiful mountain with a beautiful name, going back to ancient times, from the writings of Chinese monks in the 7th century. It means "Prince of the Spirits". A great number of exciting legends about this mysterious summit were composed by different people who inhabited the neighboring valleys. One of these legends says that ghosts dwelling the mountains every night kindled a huge bonfire at the summit of Khan-Tengri.
30 years of our work on Khan Tengri Peak have shown that the safest route on this mountain lies from the North side, because:
1) the route is equipped with "fixed ropes",
2) the route is protected from an avalanching,
3) the route is well observed from the Base camp,
4) there is a direct visibility for VHF-radio communication with BC all along the route,
5) our guides are on duty in the intermediate camps - ready to assist at any moment,
6) the approach to the beginning of a route from BC takes about 30 minutes along the flat glacier, and descent by fixed ropes from the snow-covered dome of the North summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m to the Base camp takes 5-6 hours with stops in intermediate camps.
The well-known Kazakhstan climber Denis Urubko has ascended to the summit from North side and has descended to the Base camp during 14 hours!
First ascent was made by the southern route in 1931, and during this period more than 30 persons were killed by avalanches and ice-falls between 1 and 3 camps (in "the bottle" and above, especially in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006, 2010 and 2014) - irrespective of time when they passed the dangerous sites.
We wish you successful and safe ascensions from the North side!