The cost of expedition:
1 person - 2490 USD per person
2-3 persons - 2350 USD per person
4-5 persons - 2300 USD per person
6 persons & more - 2250 USD per person
Single room + 35 USD per person
Standard service includes:
*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC (no limitation for luggage overweight) *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport *All transfers *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *Sauna or shower in Karkara BC *Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier *Kitchen-tent *Cooking accessories in BC *Cook *Hot shower in North Inylchek BC *Toilets in BC *Interpreter’s service *All staffs insurance *Entrance fee for the border region *Ecological duties *Evacuation of debris from BC *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.
Service Excludes:
*Food & equipment above the BC on the glacier *Rescue (insurance policy required) *Changing of departure's date from Almaty by international airlines *Extra hotel nights in Almaty *Meal in Almaty *Local guide *Extra helicopter flight *Sightseeing in Almaty *Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and Glacier BC *Bar bills
Variant #2 (Karkara BC - Base Camp on the glacier - Karkara BC):
The cost of expedition - 2150 USD per person
The above cost is based on Full Board and includes the same service as in Variant#1 except hotel accommodation in Almaty, meeting and seeing-off at airport, transfers to Karkara BC and back, lunch - boxes on the way.
2. “Economy” package (Karkara BC – Base Camp on the glacier – Karkara BC)
The cost of expedition is 1200 USD per person and it includes:
*Return charter helicopter flight to BC *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Entrance fee for the border region *Ecological duties *Registration in “rescue team” *Place for the tent in North Inylchek BC *Protection of tent in BC *Toilets in BC *Safe box in BC *Evacuation of debris from BC *Medical consultations in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky *Electric generator (220V) in BC for charging batteries *Staffs insurance *Weather forecast from Internet *Changing the date of return helicopter flight from BC
*Baggage limit - 30kg; extra weight - 7 USD/per kg.
To the attention of individual climbers! Super offer from KanTengri Expeditions:
ASCENT TO KHAN TENGRI PEAK IN THE JOINT INTERNATIONAL TEAM!
1. Regarding to the climbing route
The safest route up the summit leads from our Base Camp on the North Inylchek Glacier. It is a little bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) from the South Inylchek Glacier, but is protected from icefalls and avalanches, which killed the climbers on the classic route in 1991, 1993, 2004, 2006 and 2010 years.
The ascent on northern route lies against the background of the vigorous Northern Wall of Khan Tengri Peak (3000 m), formed of black granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4700 m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the North summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m. An easy wide snow ridge ends in Camp 3 (5900 m). On the desent route of the snow-covered dome, you will face with a big 8 - meters high ice-wall, which we have equipped with fixed-ropes and ladder for ascents and descents.
The ascent shall be continued by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few rocky shelves to set Camp 4 at altitude 6400 m. However, this option is not often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. The guides of our company only fix ropes on the most difficult parts of the route that will ease your climbing almost till the top of Khan Tengri Peak.
Please, bear in mind that some companies sell the expeditions to Khan Tengri Peak from the North, and for some reason include our "fix-ropes" on the route in their cost. In this connection, we ask all climbers (not our clients) to take into consideration that the cost of “fix-ropes” is 250 USD for 1 person; the payment will be raised in "Northern Inylchek" Base Camp.
One more advantage of the North Side Route is the opportunity of climbing by the simple snow routes for Karly Tau Peak, 5450 m, Bayankol Peak, 5791 m, Kazakhstan Peak, 5761 m for acclimatization, also from the North Inylchek BC.
2. Regarding to the climbing season
The best period for climbing is 14 July till 25 August 2019.
The duration – 24 days, depending on international airlines.
3. Regarding to the high-altitude food
According to the itinerary (Day 1), you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure from Almaty to Karkara BC to for buyinghi high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.
There are different foods and beverages in supermarkets of Almaty, the most popular are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.
Buying high-altitude food in Almaty will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
4. Regarding to the equipment
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
| 1.KOVEA stove |
30 USD per piece |
| 2.KOVEA gas cylinders |
10 USD per balloon |
| 3."Red Fox" high altitude double tent |
215 USD per tent |
| 4.Ropes 50 meters |
80 USD per rope |
These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
5. Regarding to the hotel accommodation
Service list includes one night accommodation in a hotel 3* in Almaty. It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice.
Additional night at the hotel 3* - 60 USD per person / per night.
6. Regarding visa support and letter of invitation
Please check if you need to get visa to Kazakhstan
For organizing your trip including permit to border zone we will need scanned copy of your passport.
Note! There shouldn't be less than 6 months between the dates of visit and passport date of expiry
7. Regarding to the local guides
We are the only tourist company that does have the team of very experienced guides – mountaineers.
Our climbing experience has shown and proved that climbing to Khan Tengri Peak with local guide will have 95% of success.
The cost of local guide for period of ascending:
| 1 person |
2500 USD |
| 2 persons |
3600 USD |
| 3 persons |
4100 USD |
Also you may order high-altitude porter (who carries up to 9 kg a day up to Camp 3), very qualified, the cost – 1600 USD.
The order of local guide and high-altitude porter should be done two months in advance.
8. Regarding to the environmental protection
For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.
Standard program of ascent on Khan Tengri Peak from the North
“Expedition style”
In practice since 1989 year
“C1 – C2 – Chapayev Peak – C3 – Summit – C3 – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC”
Day 1. Drive from Almaty to Karkara BC, 2200 m a.s.l.
Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m on the summit’s slopes of Bas Karkara’s Peak, 4059m.
Day 3. Helicopter flight to Northern Inylchek Glacier BC, 4000 m.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.
First acclimatization climb.
Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.
Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.
Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.
Second acclimatization climb.
Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.
Day 11. Rest in BC.
Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.
Ascent to the Summit.
Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.
Day 16. Ascension on the top of Mt.Khan Tengri, 7010m. Start at 3 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 8—9 hours and decent along the same route to C3 – 4-5 hours.
Day 17. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.
Day 18. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.
Day 19. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.
Day 20. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.
Day 21. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.
Day 22. Helicopter flight to Karkara BC.
Day 23. Drive to Almaty. Hotel.
Day 24. Departure.
Click here for more photos of the route
9. Booking Procedure
If you decided to take part of the expedition, please fill-in our form and send by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.:
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
* for members of Joint Team - T-short size
Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
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