“Expedition style” (In practice since 1989 year)
“C1 – C2 – Chapayev Peak – C3 – Summit – C3 – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC”
Day 1. Arrive Almaty, Kazakhstan. Meeting at the airport. Visit to a supermarket to purchase high altitude food. 4-hours’ transfer to Karkara Base Camp (2200 m) - 280 km. Stay in comfortable "walk-in tents" (2200m a.s.l.). Welcome meal and gear check.
Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m.
Day 3. Helicopter charter flight to BC Northern Inylchek, 4000m - 35 minutes.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.
First acclimatization climb.
Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.
Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.
Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.
Second acclimatization climb.
Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.
Day 11. Rest in BC.
Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.
Ascent to the Summit.
Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.
Day 16. Summit day. Start at 3 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 8—9 hours and decent along the same route to C3 – 4-5 hours.
Day 17. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.
Day 18. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.
Day 19. Weather contingency day.
Day 20. Weather contingency day.
Day 21. Weather contingency day.
Day 22. Helicopter flight to BC Karkara.
Day 23. Travel to Almaty, stay at a hotel.
Day 24. Depart hotel for the airport. Fly home.
*more details about the programme is in the recommendations section
Duration: 24 days
FIXED DATES OF THIS EXPEDITION FROM 23 JULY TILL 15 AUGUST
HELICOPTER CHARTER FLIGHTS FROM KARKARA BC (Day 3) TO THE NORTH INYLCHEK BC and BACK TO KARKARA BC (Day 11):
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The guided expedition fee is 3490 USD per person
Single supplement charge in a hotel + 35 USD
The expedition fee includes:
* Experienced mountain guide
* Guide assistant for every 4 climbers
* High-altitude tents (4 and 2 persons)
* Group equipment: ropes, gas and gas burners, cookware sets, high-altitude food
Services of the standard programm:
* Airport transfers in Almaty by private vehicles
* 1 night bed and breakfast accommodation at Hotel (3*) in Almaty on a twin sharing basis (at arrival or before departure)
* Transfers to the Central Tien Shan Mountains and back (Almaty – Karkara BC – Almaty) by private vehicles
* Lunchboxes on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back
* Border permit
* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents
* Sauna\shower in Karkara BC
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC with free change of the departure date (no limitation for luggage overweight)
* Full board North Inylchek BC accommodation– in comfortable “walk-in” tents on wooden platforms with mats, and meal in large mess-tent with tables and chairs
* Hot shower in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Tent security in BC
* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide
* Translator’s service in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Local staffs insurance
* Fixed ropes along the Northern route and Western Ridge of Khan Tengri
* Walky-Talky
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
The expedition fee does not include:
* Food & personal gear above the BC
* Rescue (travel insurance required)
* Extra hotel nights in in Almaty
* Lunch and evening meal in Almaty
* Sightseeing in Almaty
* Local guide
* Extra helicopter flight
* Spending on personal items (alcohol/bottled drinks, laundry, gifts etc.)
* Optional trips and sightseeing tours
* Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and Glacier BC
* Tips
Please check Khan Tengri Standard program 24 days recommendations.
For more photos click here
Booking Procedure.
If you would like to join this expedition, please complete our booking form and send it by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
* for members of Joint Team - T-short size
Please contact us if you'd like further information and assistance in planning your trip.
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