The cost of expedition is 3290 USD per person
*Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night *Return charter helicopter flight to BC *Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North *Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport *All transfers *Lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Accommodation in “family tents” on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC *“Family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC *Three meals a day in BC *Interpreter’s service *experienced guide, guide’s assistants for each of 4 climbers; group equipment will be provided: 2 and 4 persons high-altitude tents, ropes, gas cylinders and gas stoves, sets of cooking battery; high-altitude food will be purchased (the list will be sent to each participant in advance in order to correct it individually) *All staffs insurance *Entrance fee for the border region *Ecological duties *Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier *Kitchen-tent *Cooking accessories in BC *Cook *Sauna or shower in BC *Toilets in BC *Evacuation of debris from BC *Medical aid in the BC *Consultations by an experienced guide *Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office *Walky-Talky *Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries.
Standard program of ascent on Khan Tengri Peak from the North
“Expedition style”
In practice since 1989 year
“C1 – C2 – Chapayev Peak – C3 – C4 - Summit – C3 – Chapayev Peak – C2 – BC”
Day 1. Drive from Almaty to Karkara BC, 2200 m a.s.l.
Day 2. Acclimatization hike up to 3600m on the summit’s slopes of Bas Karkara’s Peak, 4059m.
Day 3. Helicopter flight to Northern Inylchek Glacier BC, 4000 m.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for a first part of climbing.
First acclimatization climb.
Day 5. Ascension on a simple snow slope of 35 degrees to C1, 4700m. Crossing a bergschrund by fix-ropes before C1. Overnight in C1.
Day 6. Climb up to C2 using fix-ropes, 5500m. Delivery of tent, food etc. – 6-7 hours. The average steepness of a snow crest is 40 degrees, partially with rock sections. There is 10-meters rocky wall on the altitude of 5300 m. Descend to BC – 2-3 hours.
Day 7. Rest in BC. Preparation to the ascension on the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m.
Second acclimatization climb.
Day 8. After lunch, climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 9. Climb up to C2, 6-7 hours. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 10. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m, by fix-ropes - 4-5 hours. Climb up to 5900 m. on the snow crest, then – rocky belt of 45 degrees of slope ratio up to the snow dome, 6150m. Descent to BC – 4-5 hours.
Day 11. Rest in BC.
Day 12. Rest in BC. Preparation to ascent the Summit.
Ascent to the Summit.
Day 13. Climb up to C1. Overnight, 4700m.
Day 14. Climb up to C2. Overnight, 5500m.
Day 15. Ascension to the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m., and descent by the ice wall of bergschrund – 8-10 m. using fix-roes and ladder – to the snow crest that leads to the saddle, 5900m. Overnight.
Day 16. Climb up to C4, 6400 m. Late in the morning after sun lights C3 – move to C4, 6400m., by the fix-ropes of rocky crest. Placing camp. Overnight.
Day 17. Ascension on the top of Mt.Khan Tengri, 7010m. Start at 9 a.m. Climb up along the western rocky crest by fix-ropes – 3-4 hours and decent to 6400 m – 2-3 hours. Evacuation of the camp and descent to C3 – 2-3 hours.
Day 18. Climb up the shoulder of Chapayev Peak, 6150 m. – 2-3 hours, and descent to C2, 5500 m – 2 hours.
Day 19. Descent to BC – 3-4 hours.
Day 20. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.
Day 21. Reserve day for bad weather conditions.
Day 22. Helicopter flight to Karkara BC.
Day 23. Drive to Almaty. Hotel.
Day 24. Departure.
Click here for more photos of the route
Booking Procedure
If you decided to take part of the expedition, please fill-in our form and send by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.z:
| 1. |
Your full name (as in Passport) |
| 2 |
Date of birth |
| 3 |
Nationality |
| 4 |
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry) |
| 5 |
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years) |
| 6 |
Home address |
| 7 |
Expedition name |
| 8 |
Dates of expedition |
| 9 |
Number of insurance policy |
* for members of Joint Team - T-short size
Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
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