Kan Tengri Expeditions Travel & Adventure in Kazakhstan

North Summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150m

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Physical rating:
Group size: 1
Country: Kazakhstan

Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North Summit, 6150m.

Northern Inylchek Glacier, Kazakhstan

14 days


Since 2017 our company organizes expeditions to the Northern summit of Chapaev Peak, 6150m., as an independent climbing event. This is the easiest way to climb 6000m. peak in the Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.

Many climbers really enjoyed making their ascents on Khan Tengri Peak, 7010m. from the Northern Inylchek Glacier and admired the views that open from the shoulder of Chapayev Peak before descending to Camp 3 on the Western ridge.

From the snow dome, you can see the panorama of the entire Central Tien Shan, including Pobedy Peak and the marble Western ridge of Mt.Khan Tengri, as well as many other ice peaks and ridges. The best photos were made from this point.

You will climb the classic route on Khan Tengri Peak, fully equipped with fixed ropes, to a comfortable snow field of Camp 2. From here a beautiful view of the black and yellow North Face of Khan Tengri, ice crests of the Marble Wall (6400m), Przhevalsky Peak (6350m) , Peak of the Russian Geographical Society (6330m),  Karly Tau Peak (5450m), Kazakhstan Peak (5670m), Peak Semenov (5618m) and other mounts.

Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly  climb without any luggage  the top of Chapayev North Summit and  back to Camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feels better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to the main Summit of Chapayev Peak, 6371m. and  back to Camp 2 (5500m).


The route


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