Since 2017 our company organizes expeditions to the Northern summit of Chapaev Peak, 6150m., as an independent climbing event. This is the easiest way to climb 6000m. peak in the Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.
Many climbers really enjoyed making their ascents on Khan Tengri Peak, 7010m. from the Northern Inylchek Glacier and admired the views that open from the shoulder of Chapayev Peak before descending to Camp 3 on the Western ridge.
From the snow dome, you can see the panorama of the entire Central Tien Shan, including Pobedy Peak and the marble Western ridge of Mt.Khan Tengri, as well as many other ice peaks and ridges. The best photos were made from this point.
You will climb the classic route on Khan Tengri Peak, fully equipped with fixed ropes, to a comfortable snow field of Camp 2. From here a beautiful view of the black and yellow North Face of Khan Tengri, ice crests of the Marble Wall (6400m), Przhevalsky Peak (6350m) , Peak of the Russian Geographical Society (6330m), Karly Tau Peak (5450m), Kazakhstan Peak (5670m), Peak Semenov (5618m) and other mounts.
Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly climb without any luggage the top of Chapayev North Summit and back to Camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feels better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to the main Summit of Chapayev Peak, 6371m. and back to Camp 2 (5500m).
Day 1. Arrive Almaty, Kazakhstan. Meeting at the airport. Visit to a supermarket to purchase high altitude food. 4-hours’ transfer to Karkara Base Camp (2200 m) - 280 km. Stay in comfortable "walk-in tents" (2200m a.s.l.). Welcome meal and gear check.
Days 2-3. Helicopter charter flight to BC Northern Inylchek, 4000m - 35 minutes.
Days 4 - 11. Climbing period in "expedition" style.
The expedition fee for the "Full Paсkage" is 2300 USD per person
Single supplement charge in a hotel + 35 USD
The expedition fee includes:
* Airport transfers in Almaty by private vehicles
* 1 night bed and breakfast accommodation at Hotel (3*) in Almaty on a twin sharing basis (at arrival or before departure)
* Transfers to the Central Tien Shan Mountains and back (Almaty – Karkara BC – Almaty) by private vehicles
* Lunchboxes on the way to Karkara BC and on the way back
* Border permit
* Full board Karkara BC accommodation in a comfortable “walk-in” tents
* Sauna\shower in Karkara BC
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC with free change of the departure date (no limitation for luggage overweight)
* Full board North Inylchek BC accommodation– in comfortable “walk-in” tents on wooden platforms with mats, and meal in large mess-tent with tables and chairs
* Hot shower in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Tent security in BC
* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide
* Translator’s service in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Local staffs insurance
* Fixed ropes along the Northern route of Khan Tengri
* Walky-Talky
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
The expedition fee does not include:
* Food & personal gear above the BC
* Rescue (travel insurance required)
* Local guide
* Extra hotel nights in in Almaty
* Lunch and evening meal in Almaty
* Extra helicopter flight
* Spending on personal items (alcohol/bottled drinks, laundry, gifts etc.)
* Optional trips and sightseeing tours
* Wireless Internet access in Karkara BC and Glacier BC
* Tips
Local guide - 2500$ for a group of 1-3 persons
The expedition fee for the "Economy Paсkage" is 1600$ per person
Extra baggage (over 30 kg) - 7$\kg
It includes the minimum required set of services.
The expedition fee includes:
* Border permit
* Helicopter return charter flight to the Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Place for a tent in BC
* Wash basin with warm water
* Toilet in BC
* Tent security in BC
* Consultations on ascension route by an experienced guide
* Translator’s service in Northern Inylchek glacier BC
* Fixed ropes along the Northern route and Western Ridge of Khan Tengri
* Walky-Talky
* Safe box in BC
* Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office
* Weather forecast from the Internet
* First aid in BC
* Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries
* Evacuation of debris from BC by helicopter
* Ecological duties
* Hotel reservation
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
The best period for climbing is 8 July till 25 August.
The duration – 14 days, depending on international airlines schedule.
Food.
Food will be of the highest standard possible, given the remoteness of the situation. You will take hot meals in Base Camps on the full board basis. On the mountain high-altitude food is not provided.
We are able to accommodate most dietary requirements but do please inform us in advance.
High-altitude food.
According to the itinerary (Day 1), you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure from Almaty to Karkara BC for buying high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.
There are different foods and beverages in supermarkets of Almaty, the most popular are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.
Buying high-altitude food in Almaty will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
Hotel accommodation.
Expedition fee includes one night accommodation in a hotel 3* in Almaty. It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice.
Additional night at the hotel 3* - from 20 USD per person / per night.
The gear.
You may rent in our company the following equipment:
1.KOVEA stove
30 USD per piece
2.KOVEA gas cylinders
10 USD per balloon
3."Red Fox" or similar high altitude double tent
215 USD per tent
4.Ropes 50 meters
80 USD per rope
These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.
Local guides.
We have the team of very experienced guides – mountaineers.
Local guide - 2500 USD for a group of 1-3 person
The order of local guide should be done two months in advance.
Environmental protection.
For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) from the climbing route to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.
Personal equipment list:
Mountain boots (with overboots) for 6000 meters climbing
Crampons (classic) - possible to rent at 40 USD
Windproof clothing and thick fleece
Downy jacket
Sleeping bag (4 seasons)
Climbing mattress
Rucksack (80-90 l.)
Gloves (flees, silk, windproof)
Fleece hat windproof
Harness
2-meters rope
4 carabines
Jumar
Descender
Head lamp with spare batteries
Knife
Thermal underwear
Ice axe (classic) - possible to rent at 40 USD
Lighter - 2
Sunglasses
Sunblock F.50
Booking Procedure.
If you would like to join this expedition, please complete our booking form and send it by e-mail to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.
1.
Your full name (as in Passport)
2
Date of birth
3
Nationality
4
Passport details (number of the document, dates of issue and expiry)
5
Mountaineering experience (your best achievements during last 3 years)
6
Home address
7
Expedition name
8
Dates of expedition
9
Number of insurance policy
Please contact us if you'd like further information and assistance in planning your trip.
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