Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North Summit, 6150m, Kazakhstan
Many climbers like very much to climb Khan Tengri Peak from the Northern Inylchek Glacier and exited panoramic view from the top of Chapayev Shoulder 6150 m. before descent to Camp 3 on Western Ridge.
From the snow dome you can see all panorama of Central Tien Shan including Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri marble Western ridge and others many icy peaks and ranges. The best photos were made from that point.
Since 2017 KanTengri Expeditions started to organize “Expedition to Chapayev Peak North summit 6150 m” as separate climbing event.
You will climb by classic route fully equipped by fixed ropes to Khan Tengri Peak until comfortable snow field of camp2 (5500m). From here - super view on black and yellow 3000 m. North Face of Khan Tengri and icy ranges of Marble Wall (6400), Przhevalskogo (6350), Russian Geographical Society(6330), Karly Tau (5450), Kazakhstan (5670), Bayankol (5791) and Semenova (5618) Peaks.
Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly climb without any luggage the top of Chapayev North and back to camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feel better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to main summit of Chapayev Peak 6371m. and back to camp 2 (5500m).
This is easiest only way to climb 6000-m. peak in a Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.