Kan Tengri Expeditions Travel & Adventure in Kazakhstan

North Summit of Chapayev Peak, 6150m


Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North Summit, 6150m.

Northern Inylchek Glacier, Kazakhstan


Since 2017 our Company started to organize “Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North summit, 6150m.” as separate climbing event. This is the easiest way to climb 6000-m. peak in the Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.

Many climbers like very much to climb Khan Tengri Peak from the Northern  Inylchek Glacier and exited panoramic view from the top of Chapayev Shoulder 6150 m. before descent to Camp 3 on Western Ridge. 

From the snow dome you can see all panorama of Central Tien Shan including Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri marble Western ridge  and others many icy peaks and ranges. The best photos  were made from that point.

You will climb by classic route fully equipped by fixed ropes to Khan Tengri Peak until comfortable  snow field of camp2 (5500m). From here - super view on black and yellow 3000 m. North Face of Khan Tengri and icy ranges of  Marble Wall (6400), Przhevalskogo (6350), Russian Geographical Society(6330), Karly Tau (5450), Kazakhstan (5670), Bayankol (5791) and Semenova (5618) Peaks.

Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly  climb without any luggage  the top of Chapayev North and  back to camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feel better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to main summit of Chapayev Peak 6371m. and  back to camp 2 (5500m).


The route


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