Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North Summit, 6150m.
Northern Inylchek Glacier, Kazakhstan
Since 2017 our Company started to organize “Expedition to Chapayev Peak, North summit, 6150m.” as separate climbing event. This is the easiest way to climb 6000-m. peak in the Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.
Many climbers like very much to climb Khan Tengri Peak from the Northern Inylchek Glacier and exited panoramic view from the top of Chapayev Shoulder 6150 m. before descent to Camp 3 on Western Ridge.
From the snow dome you can see all panorama of Central Tien Shan including Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri marble Western ridge and others many icy peaks and ranges. The best photos were made from that point.
You will climb by classic route fully equipped by fixed ropes to Khan Tengri Peak until comfortable snow field of camp2 (5500m). From here - super view on black and yellow 3000 m. North Face of Khan Tengri and icy ranges of Marble Wall (6400), Przhevalskogo (6350), Russian Geographical Society(6330), Karly Tau (5450), Kazakhstan (5670), Bayankol (5791) and Semenova (5618) Peaks.
Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly climb without any luggage the top of Chapayev North and back to camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feel better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to main summit of Chapayev Peak 6371m. and back to camp 2 (5500m).