This is the most Northern peak in Asia exceeding
6000 m. The name of this peak was given by one of the first explorers
of the Tien Shan, G. Mertsbakher in 1902. Settled on the border
of China and Kazakhstan, this summit is distinguished by the 500-meter
high marble wall, in a peculiar way enclosed between massive glaciers.
This summit is a challenge for those mountain-climbers who for the
first time climb over 6000 meters.
Expeditions may be arranged during
any season of the year but helicopter can be used in July and August
only. The summit offers several technically simple but very extensive
routes along the adjacent ridges and slopes up to 40 degrees steep.
At least three intermediate camps must be set up at altitudes 4000,5200,
and 5900 m. Even at 6000 meters, when expecting to set foot on a
new ridge, you will enjoy the staggering view of the North Wall
of Khan Tengri peak and encircling summits and glaciers of Kazakhstan
and China. The ascent of Marble Wall peak is a good way to get acclimatized
before climbing Khan Tengri and Pobeda peaks.