Khan Tengri is a beautiful mountain with a beautiful name, going
back to ancient times, from the writing of Chinese monks in the
7th century. It means "Prince of the Spirits". A great number of
exciting legends about this mysterious summit were composed by different
people who inhabited the neighboring valleys. One of these legends
says that ghosts dwelling the mountains every night kindled a huge
bonfire at the summit of Khan-Tengri. The safest route up the summit
leads from our Base Camp on North Inylchek Glacier. It is a little
bit more difficult than the classic route (1931) but is protected
from icefalls and avalanches, which haunt the climbers on the classic
route. The ascent on this route lies against the background of the
vigorous Northern Wall of Khan-Tengri Peak (2500 m), formed of black
granite, blue ice and yellow marble, striking by its dimensions
and the play of sunlight and shadows on the mountain wall. The steep
ridge, offering comfortable sites for intermediate Camp 1 (4900
m) and Camp 2 (5500 m), leads to the snow-covered dome of the shoulder
of Chapayev Peak. An easy slope down the wide snow ridge ends in
Camp 3, usually arranged in a snow cave. The ascent shall be continued
by the rock steps of West ridge. There are a few comfortable sites
to set camps at altitude 6400 metres. However, this option is not
often used. Usually ascents start from Camp 3. Fixed ropes will
help you almost along the entire route. The months of July and August
are the best time for ascending the peak.
||Arrive Almaty. Drive to Karkara.
||Charter heli-flight to North Inylchek BC.
|| Ascent of Khan Tengri.
||Charter heli-flight back to Karkara BC. Drive Almaty.
Please refer to program dossier
for more details.
* See our special offer for individual climbers!