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Expedition to Chapayev Peak

North Summit, 6150 m


July-August 2018


16 days


July - August

Recommended dates of expedition:

11.07. - 26.08.2018

30.07. - 13.08.2018    

Many climbers like very much to climb Khan Tengri Peak from the Northern  Inylchek Glacier and exited panoramic view from the top of Chapayev Shoulder 6150 m. before descent to Camp 3 on Western Ridge. 

From the snow dome you can see all panorama of Central Tien Shan including Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri marble Western ridge  and others many icy peaks and ranges. The best photos  were made from that point.

Now KanTengri Expeditions  starts to organize “Expedition to Chapayev Peak North summit 6150 m” as separate climbing event.

You will climb by classic route fully equipped by fixed ropes to Khan Tengri Peak until comfortable  snow field of camp2 (5500m). From here - super view on black and yellow 3000 m. North Face of Khan Tengri and icy ranges of  Marble Wall (6400), Przhevalskogo (6350), Russian Geographical Society(6330), Karly Tau (5450), Kazakhstan (5670), Bayankol (5791) and Semenova (5618) Peaks.

Summit day takes few hours unhurriedly  climb without any luggage  the top of Chapayev North and  back to camp 2 using fixed ropes. Who feel better on the top can climb further 2 km. ridge to main summit of Chapayev Peak 6371m. and  back to camp 2 (5500m).

This is easiest only way to climb 6000-m. peak in a Central Tien Shan Mountains ever.

The program of expedition:

Day 1
Arrive to Almaty. Meeting at the airport. Drive to Karkara Base Camp, 280 km. Accommodation in the comfortable "walk-in tents". At leisure after the long travel.
Day 2
Acclimatization. Hiking to the neighboring hills (the highest of them is 4059 m).
Day 3
Helicopter flight (30-35 min) up to the Base Camp on North Inylchek Glacier (4000 m).
Day 4 - 13
Climbing period in "expedition" style.
Day 14
Helicopter return flight to Karkara Base Camp.
Day 15
Drive to Almaty. Hotel accommodation.
Day 16
Transfer to airport. Fly home.

The cost of expedition is 1500 USD per person   

Single room                     + 35 USD per person

Service Includes:

* Hotel in Almaty, B/B - 1 night  * Return charter helicopter flight to BC * Fixed ropes on the ascent route from North   * Meeting and seeing off in Almaty International Airport  *All transfers *Lunch-boxes on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty *Accommodation in “family tents”on "Full board" basis in Karkara BC * Accommodation in “family tents” with mattresses and wooden platforms in North Inylchek BC on "Full board" basis * Interpreter’s service  in BC * Mess-tent with tables and chairs in BC on glacier  * Kitchen-tent  * Cooking accessories in BC  * Cook  * Sauna or shower in Karkara BC * Sauna or shower in North Inylchek BC * Toilet in BC * Evacuation of debris from BC  * Medical aid in the BC * Consultations by an experienced guide  * Radio communication between Karkara BC, Glacier BC, helicopter and Almaty office * Walky-Talky  * Electric generator (220V) in BC for mess-tents lighting and charging batteries* All staffs insurance* Entrance fee for the border region  * Ecological duties 


Service Excludes:

Food & Equipment above the BC on the glacier; Rescue; Extra hotel's nights in in Almaty; Meal in Almaty; Local guide; Sightseeing in Almaty; Bar bills

Regarding climbing season

The best period for climbing is 10 July till 25 August 2017.

The duration – 17 days, depending on international airlines


Regarding high-altitude food

According to the itinerary, you will have 1-2 hours in the morning before departure for Karkara BC to by high-altitude food that you will need for the climbing due to your wish and taste.

There are different products in supermarkets of Almaty, the main of them are: walnuts, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, dry fruits, dates, cashew nuts, fish tins, meat tins, sweets, sugar, salt, chocolate, bread, sausage, cheese, rice, milk, tea, coffee, cornflakes, butter, porridge, biscuits etc.

Regarding equipment

You may rent in our company the following equipment:

1.KOVEA stove                                                    30 USD    per piece
KOVEA gas cylinders                                         10 USD   per balloon
3.High altitude double tent                                    120 USD   per tent
4.Ropes 50 meters                                                80 USD   per rope
These items 3 & 4 will let you to save the weight of your baggage on international airlines.



Regarding hotel accommodation

Service list includes one night accommodation in a hotel 3* in Almaty. It may be used upon arrival to Almaty, or on last night before departure, depending on itinerary of international airlines and your choice.


Regarding visa support and letter of invitation

Depending on your nationality and homecountry you may need double-entry Kazakh visa and a single-entry Kyrgyz visa.  Please see the visa info  on www.kantengri.kz/visas.htm


Regarding environmental protection

For preservation of environment the main requirement to the climbers is a releasing of all garbage (packages, cans, etc.) to the BC, giving it to the chief of BC, and KanTengri Expeditions then deliver it by helicopter to Karkara BC.

.Booking Procedure

If you decided to take part in the expedition, please fill-in our form and send by e-mail to: info@kantengri.kz:


Your full name (as in Passport)


Date of birth




Passport details

(number of the document, dates of issue and expiry)


Mountaineering experience

(your best achievements during last 3 years)


Home address


Expedition name


Dates of expedition

9 Number of insurance policy

Once we receive your information, we’ll send you the Invoice for a deposit payment.

Kan Tengri LTD
10 Kasteyev street,
050010, Almaty Kazakhstan
Tel: +7 (727) 2910200, 2910880
Fax: +7 (727) 2912010
E-mail: info@kantengri.kz

Copyright © KanTengri LTD